How to Groom Your Dog at Home: A Calm, Simple Routine for Any Breed
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How to Groom Your Dog at Home: A Calm, Simple Routine for Any Breed
Home grooming does not have to mean creating a salon finish.
It is about keeping your dog comfortable, maintaining their coat and noticing small changes early.
For one dog, that may mean a quick weekly brush. Another may need coat checks most days and regular professional grooming.
This routine works for every breed and mixed breed. Simply adapt the tools and timing to the coat in front of you.
Quick answer: how to groom your dog at home
- Choose tools that suit your dog's coat.
- Set up a quiet space with a non-slip surface.
- Check the skin, coat, paws and body before you begin.
- Brush gently in small sections.
- Bathe only when needed, using dog-specific products.
- Dry the coat fully and without too much heat.
- Check the nails, ears, eyes and skin folds.
- Stop if your dog becomes worried or you find pain, tight matting or sore skin.
You do not need to do every step in one session. A short, positive groom is more useful than a long session your dog learns to avoid.
Start with your dog's coat type
Breed names can be helpful, but coat type matters more. Mixed-breed dogs may even have different textures across their body.
Short and smooth coats
Examples include many Staffies, Whippets and short-coated terriers.
A rubber grooming mitt, curry brush or soft-bristle brush can lift loose hair and surface dirt. Use gentle strokes in the direction the coat grows.
Double coats
Examples include Labradors, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers and many spitz breeds.
These dogs have a soft undercoat beneath the outer coat. A suitable slicker, pin brush or undercoat tool can remove loose hair.
Work in sections and take extra care during heavy moulting. Ask a professional before clipping or shaving this coat type.
Medium, long and silky coats
Examples include Spaniels, Collies, Maltese and Yorkshire Terriers.
A pin brush or gentle slicker can separate the coat. A metal comb helps check areas that tangle easily, including behind the ears and legs.
Curly, wool and tangle-prone coats
Examples include Poodles, Cockapoos, Cavapoos and many Doodles.
A suitable slicker brush and metal comb usually work as a pair. Brush in small sections, then use the comb to check from near the skin to the ends.
Wire coats
Examples include Border Terriers, Schnauzers and wire-haired Dachshunds.
A bristle brush or suitable slicker can remove debris and loose hair. Some wire coats are hand stripped, which is best learned from an experienced groomer.
Hairless, very fine or delicate coats
Use a soft cloth, grooming mitt or very soft brush. Ask your vet or groomer about suitable skin care, especially if your dog has sensitivities.
Not sure which tool suits your dog? Read Choosing the Right Brush for Your Dog's Coat Type.
Your basic home-grooming kit
You do not need a cupboard full of equipment. Start with:
- a brush suited to your dog's coat
- a comb if your dog has longer, thicker or curly hair
- a non-slip mat
- dog-specific shampoo
- clean towels
- dog nail clippers or a grinder, if you know how to use them
- treats or another reward your dog enjoys
Keep everything within reach before you start.
A calm step-by-step home-grooming routine
Step 1: Set up before bringing your dog over
Choose a quiet time when neither of you is rushed.
Use the floor or another safe, non-slip surface. Gather your tools, towels and rewards first.
Let your dog investigate the tools. Reward calm behaviour. If grooming is new, begin with a few seconds of gentle handling.
Step 2: Do a one-minute body check
Run your hands gently over your dog's body before brushing.
Look and feel for:
- knots or dense areas in the coat
- redness, scabs or sore skin
- new lumps or bumps
- ticks, grass seeds or other debris
- anything caught between the toes
Check behind the ears, under the collar, the armpits, the groin and around the tail.
If an area looks inflamed or feels painful, leave it alone and speak to your vet.
Step 3: Brush gently and in sections
Start on an area your dog is comfortable having touched. The shoulder or upper back often works well.
Use light strokes and follow the direction of the coat. The tool should move through the hair without scraping the skin.
For a short coat, work from the neck towards the tail with a soft brush or grooming mitt.
For longer, double or curly coats, work in small sections. Support the hair near the skin and loosen small tangles from the ends. Use a comb to check longer and curly coats.
Never pull a tool through resistance. Do not use scissors to cut a mat close to the skin. Dog skin can be drawn into the mat and cut very easily.
If a knot is tight, dense or close to the skin, contact a professional groomer.
Step 4: Bathe only when needed
Many dogs do not need frequent full baths. A rinse or paw wash may be enough after a muddy walk.
Brush the coat first and check for matting. Use a non-slip mat, lukewarm water and dog-specific shampoo.
Keep shampoo and water away from the eyes and ear canals. Rinse very thoroughly. Use a dog conditioner only if it suits the coat and skin.
Do not use human shampoo. It is not made for a dog's skin.
Ask your vet which product to use if your dog has itchy, sore or sensitive skin.
For more help, read How to Choose Dog Shampoo and Conditioner.
Step 5: Dry the coat properly
Press water from the coat with a towel. Avoid vigorous rubbing, especially on long or curly hair.
A short, smooth coat may only need towel drying in a warm room.
Dense, double, long and curly coats take longer. Make sure the coat is dry close to the skin, not just on the surface.
If your dog accepts a dryer, use a cool or low setting. Keep it moving and away from the skin. Never use hot air or force your dog to tolerate the noise.
Step 6: Check the paws and nails
Look between the toes and around the pads for debris, grass seeds or sore areas.
Nails may need trimming if they touch the floor, change the way your dog stands or have started to curve. Remember the dew claws, which do not always wear down naturally.
Use dog nail clippers and remove only a small amount. The quick inside the nail contains nerves and blood vessels.
Dark nails make the quick harder to see. Ask your vet or groomer for help if you are unsure. One calm nail still counts.
Read the full guide: How to Clip Your Dog's Nails at Home.
Step 7: Check the ears, eyes and skin folds
Look at the entrance of each ear. Healthy ears should not be red, painful or strongly scented.
Most dogs do not need routine ear cleaning. If you notice redness, discharge, a strong smell, repeated head shaking or discomfort, contact your vet before cleaning.
If your vet has advised ear cleaning, use a dog-safe product. Wipe only the area you can see. Never put a cotton bud into the ear canal.
If your dog has skin folds, check that they are clean and dry. Ask your vet for a safe routine if the folds become red, damp or sore.
Step 8: Finish while things are still going well
End with praise, a treat or a favourite calm activity.
Some days you may brush one leg or check the ears. That still counts.
How often should you groom your dog?
There is no single schedule for every breed.
Short, smooth coats need less brushing than long, silky or curly coats. Double coats often need more work during moulting. Wire coats may need professional maintenance.
Coat length, harness use, wet walks and swimming can all change the routine. Older dogs may need shorter, gentler sessions.
Use your dog's coat and comfort as the guide. Our dog grooming frequency guide gives more detail by coat type.
Common home-grooming mistakes
Common mistakes include:
- using a tool that does not suit the coat
- brushing the surface but missing knots underneath
- bathing before checking for tangles
- failing to rinse shampoo fully
- making every session too long
- continuing when a dog is pulling away, freezing or trying to leave
If brushing has become difficult, read Why Your Dog Hates Being Brushed — and How to Change That.
Clipping, shaping and mat removal can injure the skin when the coat or technique is unfamiliar. Get a professional demonstration before trying advanced grooming at home.
When to call a groomer
Contact a reputable groomer for tight matting, clipping, hand stripping or difficult nail care. They can also help if you are unsure which tool or method suits the coat.
A good groomer can show you what to do at home and which areas need the most attention.
When to call your vet
Speak to your vet about sore skin, strong odours, repeated itching, sudden hair loss, a new lump, pain or an eye or ear problem.
Pain can make a previously calm dog resist grooming. A vet should rule out a health problem before you treat the behaviour as a training issue.
A five-minute routine you can start today
- Minute 1: Run your hands over the coat and body.
- Minutes 2–4: Brush one area or focus on friction points.
- Minute 5: Check the paws, nails and ear entrances, then reward your dog.
Repeat this small routine regularly. You can add bathing, drying or nail care on separate days when needed.
Consistency matters more than doing everything perfectly.
Frequently asked questions
Should I brush my dog before or after a bath?
Check and brush the coat before bathing. Remove loose hair and small tangles first.
Long, thick and curly coats may also benefit from gentle brushing during drying.
What if my dog will not stay still?
Make the task smaller. Practise touching one paw, showing the brush or making one gentle stroke. Reward calm behaviour.
If the response is sudden or severe, ask your vet to rule out pain.
Build a routine that suits your dog
Good home grooming is calm, practical and suited to the individual dog.
Start with the right tool. Keep the first session short and build from there.
The goal is not perfection. It is a clean, comfortable coat, healthy skin and a dog who feels safe being handled.
For a complete coat-by-coat system, explore The Calm Dog Grooming & Coat Care Guide.
If your dog has a curly, wavy or easily matted coat, No More Mats: Curly Coat Care Reset gives you a more focused next step.